Finding the perfect piece of gold jewellery feels amazing...but will it stand the test of time? That's just one of the questions to ask yourself when choosing between solid gold jewellery and gold plated jewellery. Both are popular for their own reasons, but there are many differences between them to consider.
In this article, we'll talk about plated and solid jewellery, the key aspects that make them so different, and which will ultimately suit your wants and lifestyle better.
What is gold plated jewellery?
Gold plated jewellery is made of an inexpensive base metal, typically brass, nickel, or copper, coated in a thin layer of gold. This is done by immersing the metal in a chemical solution containing gold ions. An electrical current is then run through the solution, causing the ions to bond with the metal in a process called electroplating. You're left with a gold plating bound to the outer surface of the metal.
What is solid gold jewellery?
Solid gold jewellery is made of pure gold alloyed with other base metals, most commonly copper or sterling silver, all the way through, meaning there's no core of a different base metal. To be considered as solid gold, the percentage of gold within the alloy must be at least 37.5% - this is known as 9ct gold.
Typically, solid gold jewellery comes in 9 carats (37.5% gold), 14 carats (58% gold), 18 carats (75% gold), 22 carats (91.6% gold), and 24 carats (99+% gold). The higher the gold content, the softer the metal, which is why the most popular solid gold jewellery is usually 9ct, 14ct and 18ct.
The differences between gold plated and solid gold
The differences between gold plated and solid jewellery are extensive, making them each suited to different tastes and needs. Let's explore those differences.
Quality
The biggest difference between the two is, without a doubt, the quality. The plating on gold plated jewellery is thin, meaning that it can wear away and scratch off over quite a short period of time, depending on how often you wear the piece. This reveals the base metal underneath, ruining the jewellery's original golden aesthetic.
Plated jewellery also has the unfortunate power to turn your skin green if the metal underneath is a copper alloy; when the thin gold plating wears away, it reveals more of the copper beneath, which, when it oxidises, forms a green patina that can stain your skin.
Solid gold, however, doesn't tarnish. The beautiful lustre of gold will always remain the same, so no amount of usage will cause an unwanted silvery sheen to show through. Showering, sleeping, and even swimming (we would advise against wearing your gold jewellery in chlorinated water) in solid gold won't permanently affect the colour or quality, as long as you give it the occasional spot of TLC by buffing or cleaning your pieces. Plated jewellery, however, cannot be revived through these methods. Once the plating has worn away, it will need to be replated.
Longevity
Thanks to the high quality of solid gold, it lasts for much longer than plated jewellery. Month after month, year after year, solid gold continues to shine beautifully with very little effort needed from the wearer. Simply ensure you have a quality jewellery cloth for buffing your pieces, and you're set for a lifetime of stunning gold jewellery.
Plated jewellery doesn't boast the same longevity. Quick to tarnish and fade, once plated gold jewellery has lost that golden shine, it cannot be brought back. This results in a very short lifespan - a gold plated ring worn every day can often only last a few months before the sides, constantly rubbed between your fingers, fade to the base metal's colour. This signals the end of your gold jewellery's life, forcing you to buy yet another plated piece to replace it.
Wearbility
As mentioned, solid gold jewellery has plated jewellery beat when it comes to wearability. Thanks to its quality, you can keep solid gold pieces on in the shower, in the pool, while you're sleeping, and while you're exercising. Any discolouration can be buffed or cleaned away, leaving solid gold good as new, despite how much and where you wear it. We would advise not to expose solid gold constantly to chemicals, such as bleach, but compared to plated gold, solid gold can be highly trusted in the face of everyday wear and activities.
Due to the very thin plating of gold on plated jewellery, wearing pieces often or during the above-mentioned activities will result in fast deterioration. Chlorine, salt water, soaps and cleaning products will soon cause your pieces to fade and tarnish, turning your jewellery unsightly. Plated jewellery must always be taken off before showering, sleeping, cleaning, and other daily activities and chores, which some people find very inconvenient.
Price
Another key difference between the two is the price point. It's true that gold plated jewellery is cheaper, and this is as a result of lower quality materials (or at least a lower percentage of high quality materials, since the base metal is most often an inexpensive one). While that plated necklace you have your eye on may cost less, chances are it'll be unwearable within months. The colour will fade, it'll start to feel slightly rough, and it may even begin to turn your skin green.
Solid gold jewellery is a much better investment. By spending more on a coveted solid gold piece, you receive jewellery that won't tarnish or fade for as long as you own it, with only a little care needed to keep it shining. The money spent on gold plated jewellery adds up quickly when you are having to replace each piece, soon overtaking the single cost of a solid gold piece that can last for a lifetime.
If you decided somewhere down the line that you'd like to part with a piece of solid jewellery, then selling it to those who buy gold can give you a good return. Plated jewellery has no resale value, meaning it'll have to go straight in the bin if you want to part with it.
How to tell if jewellery is gold plated or solid gold
There are a few simple signs and tests to spot if your jewellery, or the jewellery you intend to buy, are gold plated or solid gold.
Price
When shopping for jewellery, you can tell if something is plated, or even simply toned, by its low cost. Solid gold pieces will be priced higher, indicating their luxe quality.
Hallmarks
A sure way to identify a piece of solid gold jewellery is by the stamped hallmark. Any piece of solid gold jewellery weighing more than 1 gram must be hallmarked with the sponsor or maker's mark, the millesimal fineness mark, and the assay office mark. Gold plated jewellery does not have hallmark requirements.
Our maker's mark features 'WF', showing it was created by the Wild Fawn team. The fineness mark indicates the gold percentage, which is why our 18ct pieces, for example, are all stamped with the '750' hallmark, indicating 75.0% gold content. There are four assay offices in the UK - Birmingham, London, Sheffield, and Edinburgh, and each has its own symbol. Most of our pieces are tested in London, so they feature the leopard mark, and some of our engagement rings are hallmarked in Birmingham.
Skin discolouration
As we mentioned, some plated jewellery has the potential to turn your skin green or grey, thanks to the base metal. If you notice a discolouration to your skin beneath a piece of jewellery, that's a good indication that your piece is plated.
The vinegar test
If you're unsure whether your jewellery is plated or solid and have some vinegar at home, you can try the vinegar test. Add a drop to an inconspicuous part of your jewellery, such as the inside of the clasp or reverse of a pendant - if it changes colour after a while, your piece is plated. Solid gold will remain unaffected and keep its lustre. This test works because vinegar is acidic, and gold is one of the most unreactive metals, so it won't respond to the acid.
Should you buy solid gold or gold plated?
If you want a piece that keeps its stunning gold lustre, lasts a lifetime, and holds its value, then solid gold is the way to go. The initial investment in a beautiful piece of gold jewellery pays off again and again through its quality and longevity, resulting in a truly special necklace, bracelet, ring or pair of earrings to be cherished for years to come.
Explore our stunning range of solid 9ct and 18ct gold jewellery and find a piece that speaks to you, or discover the perfect jewellery item for a loved one.
