When shopping for an engagement ring, one of the first decisions to make is whether to opt for a traditional or alternative design. But what counts as "traditional" varies more than you might think; a classic diamond solitaire might be the benchmark in some Western cultures, while in others, coloured stones, specific metals, or symbolic motifs have been the norm for generations. Personal history plays a role, too; what feels traditional to one family might feel completely unexpected to another.
Across all of our customers, we see a wonderful spectrum of intention when shopping for the perfect engagement ring for them: some are looking for something they consider fully traditional; some like to weave in a modern or alternative element or two; and others want to challenge the status quo entirely with something truly unexpected.
If you're curious about what can make an engagement ring feel traditional or alternative, and what non-traditional options are out there, read on for our full guide.
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How to choose an alternative engagement ring
What is an alternative engagement ring?
An alternative engagement ring is simply one that steps away from what's considered the conventional norm, though as we touched on above, that norm looks different depending on your background and culture.
In a broad Western context, the "traditional" benchmark tends to be a white diamond solitaire (sing-stone) ring set in white gold or platinum. An alternative ring might swap the diamond for a coloured gemstone, play with an unconventional setting style, feature an unexpected silhouette, or combine several of these things at once. The common thread isn't a specific look; it's the intention to do something a little (or a lot) different.
What makes an engagement ring traditional in design?
Again, this is more subjective than it might seem, but there are a few design elements that tend to be associated with the classic or traditional engagement ring: a single white diamond as the focal stone, a prong or claw setting that maximises the stone's brilliance, a plain or simply pavé-set band, and white metal in platinum or white gold.
Rings built around these elements have dominated Western jewellery culture for decades, largely shaped by De Beers' famous "a diamond is forever" marketing campaign of the mid-20th century. Anything that meaningfully departs from one or more of these conventions could fairly be called alternative.
How alternative or non-traditional do you want to go?
One of the most useful questions to ask yourself, or your partner if you're shopping together, is how far from convention you want to go. Some people want a ring that reads as classic at first glance but reveals something unexpected up close: an unusual setting, a subtly shaped band, a hint of colour. Others want something that immediately signals a distinct personality and aesthetic. Neither is more valid than the other, and there's a huge amount of middle ground to explore.
It's also worth considering whether the ring you have in mind already exists, or whether you want to bring something entirely new into the world. If you have a very specific vision or simply want the assurance that no one else will ever wear the same ring, a bespoke engagement ring might be the right route. Working with us to create something from scratch means every element, from the stone to the setting to the silhouette, can be tailored completely to your partner's taste.
It helps to look at the jewellery your partner already wears, as their existing taste is usually the best guide to how bold or understated they'd like their ring to be.
You can browse our ready-to-wear, ethically-made engagement rings here, or simply book a free consultation with us if you want to go down the bespoke route.
A note on metal choices
White gold and platinum are historically considered the most traditional metal choices for engagement rings, allowing the cool, glassy brilliance of white diamonds to carry through the whole piece for a clean, unified finish.
Yellow gold is often cited as the more alternative or modern choice, though it's deeply traditional in many cultures and across much of jewellery history. In the context of contemporary Western bridal jewellery, it offers warmth and contrast against the main stone, and pairs particularly beautifully with coloured gemstones and organic or chunky design styles.
Rose gold sits somewhere in between, as some consider it softer and more romantic in tone than white gold, warmer than platinum, and with a slightly vintage quality that suits cluster, shaped, and asymmetric styles especially well.
Ultimately, the best guide is what your partner already gravitates towards in their everyday jewellery. Most people have a clear preference, and their existing pieces will tell you everything you need to know.
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Alternative Engagement Ring Styles
Bezel Set Rings
A bezel set engagement ring features the gemstone(s) held in place by being fully surrounded in metal, as opposed to the more traditional claws or prongs. In a practical sense, bezel set rings are a popular choice for those looking for a protective or non-protruding design, as the stones are encased in the main body of the ring, close to the finger.
From a design point of view, bezel settings have a distinctly modern, architectural quality. The clean line of metal encircling the stone gives a sleek, considered look that suits everything from a simple minimalist solitaire to something more organic and sculptural.
Colourful Sapphire Rings
As we mentioned above, white/colourless diamonds are considered the most classic, traditional choice for engagement rings, and carry an elegance that will never go out of style. Rings featuring colourful gemstones would be considered less traditional in a Western context, though they have been popularised in recent times by royal engagement rings, most notably Princess Diana's sapphire ring, now worn by the Duchess of Cambridge.
Sapphires are by far the most popular alternative to diamonds in engagement rings. Beyond their rich, striking colour, they sit at 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, just below diamonds, making them very well suited to everyday wear. From deep blues with a vintage-inspired feel, to earthy teal and green sapphires, to bi-colour stones with a truly one-of-a-kind quality, there's a huge amount of variety within sapphires alone. For those drawn to colour but looking for something different, rubies, tourmalines, and aquamarines also make for beautiful choices, each adding their own distinctive pop of colour to a design.
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Read more about this topic in our dedicated guide to diamond-alternative engagement rings here
Cluster Rings
Traditionally speaking, the solitaire (single-stone) engagement ring is considered the most classic style, with trilogies (three-stone) being close behind. For those looking for more than three stones, clusters make a wonderful choice that allows for unique combinations and compositions of gemstones.
From a design perspective, cluster engagement rings have a distinctly vintage and heirloom quality, often evoking antique and estate jewellery with their intricate arrangements of stones. They're also a brilliant option for those who love the look of a larger, more impactful ring, as a cluster of smaller stones can create a striking overall presence that rivals a much larger single stone. Mix in a coloured centre stone or a combination of different gemstones, and the result can feel truly unique and considered.
Organic and Molten Rings
A classic ring shank is straight and uniform, consistent in width as it travels around the finger, giving the ring a clean, structured silhouette. Organic and molten designs depart from this entirely, featuring shanks that are fluid, irregular and sculptural in form, as though the metal has been shaped by hand or by nature rather than by precision tools.
Organic rings can be fully molten - which looks especially beautiful in bezel rings like this green sapphire and diamond trilogy - or have just organic elements; we love how this claw-set soliaire has just a molten band, combining traditional and alternative design elements. Our bezel organic engagement rings are hand-sculpted in wax before being cast in solid gold or platinum, allowing for a fluid, one-of-a-kind finish that glistens as it catches the light.
East-West Rings
An east-west engagement ring is one where the stone is set horizontally across the finger rather than upright in the more traditional north-south orientation. It's a simple but effective way to give a familiar stone shape an entirely different feel — an oval, emerald cut, or marquise that might look quite classic set upright takes on a modern, unconventional quality when turned on its side.
East-west settings have a sleeker, low-profile silhouette and are perfect for those who want something that feels distinctly different without being overtly bold.
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Shaped Rings
A shaped engagement ring is one where the band itself has a distinctive form rather than sitting in a straight, uniform line across the finger. This might mean a waved design, a pointed or chevron-like silhouette, or a band that curves gently across the hand. It's a detail that might seem small, but one that can make a significant difference to the overall character of a ring.
Shaped rings are a particularly interesting choice from a design perspective, as the band becomes as much a part of the aesthetic as the stone itself. Our Round and Marquise Diamond Wave Engagement Rings fluidly wrap around the central stone, adding a unique twist to a traditional diamond solitaire, while our Organic Wave Solitaire Diamond Engagement Ring adds both molten texture and a waved shank to an otherwise classic design.
Asymmetric Rings
The more traditional solitaire and trilogy engagement ring styles are symmetrical by design, which many favour for their elegance and timelessness. Asymmetric designs, however, are a popular choice for those looking for something a little more unexpected. Toi et Moi rings are perhaps the most well-known modern asymmetric style, featuring two gemstones of different cut, shape or type sitting side by side. Clusters also lend themselves naturally to asymmetry, as the combination of multiple stones offers far more opportunity for adventurous and unique compositions.
For our asymmetric engagement rings, we especially love combining different stone cuts to create a sculptural silhouette, setting them in unconventional ways like this slanted oval sapphire design, or adding an asymmetric element to just the accent stones, like in this cornflower blue sapphire ring.
Chunky Rings
A chunky engagement ring is defined primarily by its band, which is wide and substantial rather than the slender, delicate shanks more commonly associated with traditional engagement ring design. Where a fine band tends to recede and let the stone do all the talking, a wider band becomes an equal part of the design, giving the ring a bolder, more sculptural vibe.
Chunky rings tend to appeal to those with a strong, clear aesthetic who want a ring that makes a statement and perhaps matches their other everyday jewellery. They work across a range of stone shapes and settings, and pair particularly well with the other alternative styles in this guide - an organic shank, an asymmetric composition, or a bezel setting can all take on a new level of presence when set on a wide, substantial band.
Whether you're drawn to the sleek simplicity of a bezel setting, the colour and character of a sapphire, or something truly sculptural and one-of-a-kind, there's no single definition of what an engagement ring should look like. The most important thing is that it feels right for the person who will wear it every day. If you're still deciding on a style, browsing our full collection is a great place to start, or if you have a vision that you can't quite find ready-made, we'd love to talk to you about bringing it to life through a bespoke design.
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